Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fall 2017 Haute Couture collection for Dior was a breathtaking spectacle, a journey into the exotic and a testament to the enduring power of the house's legacy, reimagined for a contemporary audience. While the pre-show backstage buzz focused on the collection's unexpected travel-themed set – a lush, overgrown jungle bursting with exotic foliage – a particular garment emerged as a striking symbol of Chiuri's vision: a sophisticated black and blue coat. This seemingly simple piece, far from being overshadowed by the dramatic backdrop, served as a microcosm of the collection's overarching themes, seamlessly blending classic Dior elegance with a modern, subtly rebellious spirit. This article will delve into the details of this iconic coat, placing it within the context of the broader Fall 2017 Haute Couture collection and exploring its significance within the larger narrative of Chiuri's Dior tenure.
The absence of pre-show discussion regarding the set design itself is telling. Chiuri, known for her thoughtful and often politically charged collections, clearly prioritized the garments themselves. The theatrical backdrop, while undeniably stunning, served as a complement to the clothes, not the other way around. This approach is characteristic of Chiuri's design philosophy: a focus on the craftsmanship, the detail, and the story each garment tells, rather than relying on spectacle alone. The black and blue coat, therefore, becomes a key player in understanding this deliberate approach.
The coat itself, likely crafted from a luxurious wool or cashmere blend (precise details would require referencing specific runway show notes or Dior archives), embodied a sense of understated elegance. The black and blue color combination is inherently striking; the deep blue, perhaps a sapphire or midnight shade, adding a touch of unexpected drama to the classic black. This juxtaposition of colors hints at Chiuri’s ability to subtly subvert expectations, a hallmark of her work at Dior. The black, a signature Dior hue, represents the house's timeless heritage, while the blue introduces a modern, almost adventurous element, mirroring the collection’s travel theme.
The cut and silhouette of the coat are crucial to its impact. While images from the runway show would be necessary for precise details (length, collar style, buttoning details), it's likely the coat possessed a structured yet fluid shape, characteristic of Chiuri’s approach. She often balances the sharp lines of classic tailoring with a sense of movement and ease, creating garments that are both sophisticated and wearable. The coat likely incorporated elements of Dior's iconic New Look silhouette, possibly featuring a cinched waist and a full, graceful skirt, but with a contemporary twist – perhaps a slightly more relaxed fit or a more modern length.
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